Alaskan Uncruise; Juneau, Mt. Roberts, Tracy’s King Crabs. June 21, 2025

 Still working on Eastern time zone time (and maybe a little Portugal’s time) I found myself walking around Juneau at 4:30 in the morning.  I actually woke up at 3:30am local time and as it is the summer solstice it was daylight.  I enjoyed my wonderings through this Capital City of only 31,000 residents.  When I made it down to the docks I saw that there were no less than 4 mega cruise ships in the harbor and realized that when all those people wake up the nature of this town was going to change.

Later in the morning Sandy and I made it to the Rookery Diner and enjoyed a great breakfast surrounded by both cruisers and locals.  

Around noon we took the tram to the top of Mt. Roberts where we walked some gentle trails.  Along the way we saw totem poles, beautiful scenery and several bald eagles.  

Then it was back down the mountain and to the far side of town where there was a solstice celebration attended almost entirely by locals plus us two Ohioans.  Directly next to the festival was Tracy’s King Crab Shack No. 2 where we enjoyed the sweet meat of those crustaceans dipped in tons of melted butter.  But for the price, I could have eaten my weight in them.

Then, at exactly 10:07pm, the official setting of the sun, Sandy and I lifted a flask to the longest day of the year.  Officially18 hours sixteen minutes long but when considering the elongated dawns and dusks it is truly an endless day.

Alaskan Uncruise: Flight to Alaska June 20, 2025

A travel note:  As it turns out travel with Grandchildren keeps one busier than expected.  I was not able to keep up with the travel blog.  We have now started on our short Alaskan trip.  We will keep this blog on the Alaskan trip as up to date as possible allowing for internet and cell coverage black outs.  Sandy and I kept an outline of the trip with the grands and once we return home we will retroactively post the remainder of the Grandchildren in Europe Post.

Traveling to Alaska was a bit grueling.  Glenn and Sue dropped us off at the Columbus Airport, where because of my error, Sandy had to go through the thorough security whereas I breezed the TSA-pre security.  I’m sure I will pay for that error at some time in the future when I least expect it.

We flew from Columbus to Chicago to Seattle to Ketchikan, AK to Juneau AK, a total of 17 hours in the air or waiting for planes in airports. 

Alaska from the air

Alaska from the air

Columbus to Chicago to Seattle to Ketchikan to Juneau

Grandchildren European Trip: Napoleon Tomb, Rodin, D’orsy,(Friday, May 30, 2025)

It has been rewarding to me to see how our grandchildren have become experts in the streets surrounding the Grand Hotel St. Michell, navigating Rue Saint-Michel and its hidden alleys as if they had grown up here. They know better than me exactly where to find there favorite crêperies on the corner, shop where Whit gets his daily macaroon and where the closest gelateria is. The way to the closest METRO stations —Saint-Michel and Luxembourg—are second nature to them now, so through those stations all of Paris is at their fingertips. Also they have mastered METRO and train routes through and beneath Paris. They know how to to buy and use the NAVIGO card and how to read the mass transit maps.  I asked Whit if he could get to the Eiffel tower on his own.  He said he could and I believe him.

Whit's first subway travel

First stop today was Invalides, the home of the Musée de l’armée and Napoleon’s Tomb.  I probably tried to give EK&W too much information on the man but who could blame me.  I think they were moved by the grandness of the setting, so even if you knew nothing about his history, you’d have to think if they went to this much trouble to bury him, he must have done something.  Perhaps they appreciated most the fact that this place was not overly crowded, and welcome cool relief from the 89 degree temperatures outside.

Napoleon's Sarcophagus 

Napoleon's Mausoleum 

Something caught Elizabeth's Eye

 Across the Street from Napoleon’s Tomb is the Rodin Museum.  Ever since I watched the television series, The Many Loves of Dobbie Gillis (1959-1963) I’ve been a fan of Rodin’s work.  That TV series always opened with Dobbie Gillis sitting in front of a copy of that statue.  I had no idea that it was a Rodin statue but it was probably that statue and the television series that convinced me that I was going to go to college. 

The Thinker

Two Thinkers

Picture taken right after Elizabeth was scolded for touching the art!

We then took the Metro to the Musée d’Orsay but before going in we found a nearby café.  I have been waiting for my chance to order that uniquely French sandwich, the Coque Meisure,  French could not just have a ham and cheese sandwich, no their’s need flair.  Ham and cheese on delicious toasted French baguette, pressed, then covered with a lacy blanket of béchamel.  One bite sent me straight to a buttery heaven - warm Gruyère stretching like a French flag of indigence.  

Whit's salmon pasta

Coque Monsieur, add an egg on top and it is a Coque Madame 

A personal victory came at the café, after keeping up with these ever-energetic teenagers in Paris we finally had proof that they were tiring also.  After finishing off her hamburger, Katharyne gave it up and fell soundly to sleep right in her restaurant chair.  In my book, tiring out a teenager in Paris is a medal worthy feat.

Sleeping in the restaurant

The Musée d'Orsay shimmered with cultural promise, but the reality of high tourist season quickly set in—shoulder-to-shoulder crowds made it nearly impossible to see the art, let alone savor it. Sandy, with her heart set on viewing, and introducing her grandchildren to the Van Goghs on the fourth floor, looked crestfallen. But where crowds threatened to steal a dream, love and quick thinking stepped in.

Elizabeth, calm and resolute, scanned the gallery and picked out the pieces she knew Sandy favored.  Elizabeth then sent in Whit, with quiet determination and impressive agility, he gently wove his way through the throng. A moment later, he returned, victorious—crisp photos of Starry Night Over the Rhône and Self-Portrait with a Straw Hat glowing on his phone screen.

No, it wasn’t the same as standing before the real thing, but it was love in action. Artfully delivered, just for her.

Musée d'Orsay is a convrted train station

One of Van Gaugh's self portraits

Rachóu's portrait of Toulouse-Lautrec

One more planned stop, the Galleries at Lafayette, remarkable department store with a huge dome dome and every high end fashion name that you can imagine.  Elizabeth found some earrings that she purchased and looks fabulous in.  

The great atrium of the Galleries Lafayette

We returned to the Latin Quarter, grabbed some street food (crepes) and headed to our hotel to crash.  

Grandchildren European Trip: Visiting the île dela Cité (Thursday,May 29, 2025)

We started the morning as French as we could by grabbing a crumpet and espresso at a nearby patisserie.  Followed by a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens.  We were there around 9:00am and had the place pretty much to ourselves.

Whit requested macaroons while in Paris.  That was his first day (and every day) breakfast 

Lady talk

Elizabeth's Latte 

On our way to Luxembourg Garden

The Grands at Luxembourg Gardens

Palais du Luxembourg

Next we visited the Pantheon.  Originally a church, converted to a shrine to the French Revolution.  Beneath the pantheon are the crypts holding the remains of some of those most revered by the French.  Voltaire, Dumas, Madame Currie, Hugo, and Josephine Baker amongst many others.  I used this stop to tell EK&W about the French Revolution, Sandy talked about Joan of Arc.  I think Sandy held there interest long 

The pendulum that shows the Earths Rotation at the Pantheon

Panatheon

Sandy next to the bones of Victor Hugo

In the crypts beneath the Panthon, Madam Currie gets a lot of love

It is easy to see that what was once a church now celebrates the French Revolution

A portion of the story of Joan of Arc

We had an Ice Cream lunch at the famous Glacier, Berthilion on the Île Sainte-Lous while biding our time waiting for entrance into Saint Chapelle.

After lunch we stepped into Sainte-Chapelle. Tucked on Île de la Cité, this 13th-century Gothic gem was built by King Louis IX to house the Crown of Thorns and other relics. Though modest in size, its soaring stained-glass walls create a jewel-box of light.

The moment we climbed the narrow winding stairs to the upper chapel, the Grands were interested.  Though, like everything else in Paris this time of year the place was crowded, the space was still remarkable.  With fifteen towering windows—each a vivid Biblical tableau—bathed the space in reds, blues, and golds. Elizabeth, who has an artist’s eye especially appreciated the beauty of the windows and the light it cast on the room.  

Never enough selfies

History lessons came naturally: how the chapel survived revolutions and fires, and once sat beside the royal palace. “So kings literally lived next door?” one grandson asked, eyes wide. “And stored relics here like treasure?” Yes—and that made medieval history feel surprisingly cool.

Of course, the Elizabeth and Katharyne made some art of their own. As selfies bloomed against the rose window’s kaleidoscopic effect.

Sainte-Chapelle isn’t just another stop on the Parisian circuit—it’s where ancient stories glow in colored light, and modern teenagers discover the perfect selfie.

After Saint Chapelle our destination was Notre Dame, but then a Parisian Plot Twist.  Ah, Paris—the city of light, love, and the occasional unexpected evacuation.

We had it all planned. Notre-Dame de Paris, with reserved entry times, cameras charged, and three teenage grandchildren surprisingly on board for some more Gothic architecture. The iconic cathedral, rising from the heart of Île de la Cité, was finally open again after years of restoration. We were ready!

And then… Paris reminded us who's boss.

Just as we approaching the main gate—reservations in hand, excitement rising—the uniformed officers (military not Genarmes) appeared. Firm but calm, they began directing everyone out of and away from the cathedral. At first, it seemed like a temporary shuffle. But then came the line in French: “Au moins une heure… mais on ne sait pas.”

At least an hour. Maybe more. Possibly less. Or maybe never. Classic Parisian mystery.

Within minutes, the entire square was cleared. We tourists drifted in uncertainly until the five of us decided to escape the milling crown and the pounding heat and headed back to our air-conditioned hotel.

We had a dinner at an Chateau de St. Michel a restaurant specializing alpine cuisine. 

EK&W all had mussels 

Sandy and I had the fondue

Katharyne then came up with an extraordinary plan.  After relaxing at the hotel for several hours we headed down to chocolatier, stocked up candy, and sat with the students of the Sorbonne along the rivers edge.  I think we all felt a little French at that moment. 

Spending the evening on the Seine  

Sunset over the Seine 

Three Parisian Ladies